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The first set of photos and the accompanying tying
description is for a fly that evolved from the popular elk hair caddis but
which we've modified slightly to acquire some characteristics that allow it to be
used for a variety of insects including the previously named caddis and also a
number of different types of stones plus a few mayflies. We named it
the "White River Special" or "WRS" for short.
The fly was first used on that named river and proved to be successful during a weekend when a variety of surface insects were present including several types of caddis, red quills, yellow sallies, and some larger golden stones. We all know there's really nothing much new under the sun, and this imitation is no exception to that rule. Based roughly on an elk hair caddis design, there are a few significant differences. The hook is always a TMC 200R, and the tying thread is always fluorescent orange. No hackle is used, nor is there any tail. Natural deer or elk wing hair is preferred to any of those hairs dyed or bleached. The only other modifications we make are to sometimes add rubber legs (for terrestrials and stones) or a few strands of krystal flash built into the wings as extra sparkle.
From upper left reading clockwise around the photo are a dark bodied, black rubber leg, yellow bodied white rubber leg, krystal flash wing model, and the fly as originally tied at the lower left.
We blend a variety of materials to create what sometimes become fairly complex dubbings. Depending on the coloration desired, natural hare's ear, hairtrons, antrons, and any number of other natural and synthetic materials are combined in an effort to create a "buggy" body that will emulate the movement of palmered body or collar hackles. Tying is extremely simple. Make a dubbing loop, insert dubbing, and tie in the back two thirds of the hook, followed by the wing, and then take two or three wraps of the dubbing over the base of the hair wing to form a somewhat large "head" for the fly. If rubber legs are added, they are tied on prior to wrapping the dubbing over the base of the hair wing. That's all there is to it. A full range of hook sizes from 12 through 22 can be utilized for different insect imitations.
All have been very effective at mimicking caddis, stones, cicada, and various terrestrials. From left to right, we have yellow banded legs, then olive/black banded, and finally king snake color bands. Body dubbing varies depending on the insect we wish to approximate. Tying thread remains fluorescent orange and the hooks are still 200R's. Speaking of which................. the next set of photos is of a flat water type cicada pattern we've developed specifically for that insect form emergence on the Green River below Flaming Gorge.
Clockwise from upper left are a turkey winged black rubber leg, then the same wing, but orange/black centipede legged model. Bottom right is the same orange/black centipede leg fly, but with a gray mottled medallion sheeting wing. Bottom left is the same fly as previous, except with black legs. Frankly these imitations are quite time consuming to construct. Almost any standard dry fly hook will work. Our best success has been using a TMC 200R is sizes 12-16 (see WRS above). The under body dubbing is a blend of half black and half orange material. The two mm. thickness black foam is tied in at the tail and is pulled over the first half of the dubbing (starting at the top of the back bend of the hook). The back rubber legs are then tied at that juncture. Four strands of root beer colored krystal flash are tied over the legs and then the wing material is tied in atop the krystal. (If a section of wild turkey feather is used, a preliminary coating of flexament will strengthen the wing.) One or two wraps of the dubbing is tied over the same joint, and then the dubbing is continued on towards the head beneath the next section of foam. The foam is then tied down near the head with the last set of double legs applied next. The balance of the foam material is pulled back over the upper section of the body and is secured to create an oversized head. Any excess foam is clipped off. While an extra heavy thread is not needed to secure 2 mm. sized foam, we've used 3/0 anyway as the wider width thread tends to not cut the foam. As might be expected, these flies are difficult to see on the water since they ride low in the film. It would be possible to tie on a bright colored piece of extra foam material over the head, but as this fly will sometimes land upside down on the stream, the artificiality of that kind of colored addition might detract from the fly's appearance and certainly would cause more refusals. This fly design has produced outstanding results compared to the commercially tied versions available at local Dutch John fly shops. The model has been fished in tandem with those other styles and has been found to draw several times more strikes than the more commonly available bleached hair wing or strictly krystal flash wing styles.
Apparently the current emergence - as opposed to what we've seen in previous years - have an olive sheen to them for whatever reason. Here we've substituted solid black legs and a green tinged underbody dubbing plus a peacock colored medallion sheeting for the wings. Interestingly we've not even fished this pattern yet (but will be doing so next week). A report on its effectiveness will follow. Next. Here's another modification to a preexisting pattern known as the RS-2. We found the original to be more or less always effective, but it didn't seem to have enough "attractor" quality to trigger takes in stream flow conditions that were somewhat off color.
For most body dubbing colors the standard pearlescent material seems to work the best. But to more closely match an emerging BWO, we will sometimes substitute black Krystal Flash instead. Hook sizes are generally small - in the #18-22 range. 18's for a PMD model and smaller for general purpose use. Although we fish the fly primarily as a trailer behind either a WRS or another larger nymph, we have added a few wraps of thin lead wire underneath the dubbing to get the fly down quicker. We've visited the famous Pelican Lake in Utah several times in the recent years. This shallow warm water reservoir is loaded with perhaps the best population of very LARGE bluegills in the country and many bass besides. Located just a couple dozen miles west and south of Vernal off Highway 40, it is seriously under fished by most fly people. Though we've always encountered a few casters there, for the most part, visiting fisher people tend to turn north at Vernal and head to the more famous tailwater below the Flaming Gorge dam. That's possibly a mistake. In a couple of hours of wading the reeds along any bank of the lake it's possible to play and release up to three digit numbers of absolutely wonderful fish. Eventually too much of that good thing becomes too much, but it's still a whole bunch of fun as a prelude to fishing the "Green".
It's nothing more than a very simple rendition of a damsel fly nymph. Tied on a 3X long #12 streamer hook, it's unweighted. The eyes are black plastic barbells. A marabou plume is tied in at the back end of the hook and then wrapped forward around the hook to create the body. The marabou continues towards the head to be over wrapped a couple of times over & under the eyes to give that head some detail. A medium sized copper wire is wrapped from the tail to the head to create segmentation. We assume the color should match the color of the indigenous damsels, but here at Pelican, gold seems to work a bit better than either olive or darker green. We fish it just at the depth it sinks to when cast with a floating line and twitch it back. Not retrieving with a twitch risks the loss of many fish as these bluegills tend to "taste" a fly before taking it. The twitch allows the fisher to feel the bite. The balance of the patterns shown below have been added to this page from time to time since 1997. They're shown in the chronological order that they were added. Those at the end of this list are the most recently constructed. Complex dubbings are now being created that incorporate the "legginess" hackle feathers normally confer on an artificial, and the hackle feather flotation qualities are now being generated by waterproofing the fly at the time it comes out of the vise. Here are a few patterns that have been extremely successful locally - where appropriate the comments in blue type face reflect current thinking about body & winging materials.
The tail is a few dark dun hackle fibers. Body is BWO colored quill. Wings are light or gray colored elk or deer hair tied comparadun style. The thorax region is dubbed with a combination of regular hare's mask fibers into which has been blended a small amount of BWO colored micro dubbing. This style thorax is much more realistic in appearance than is created by the use of standard BWO dubbing without the hare's ear fibers, and it is the key to the construction of this fly.
Note that a few turns of thin lead wire can be wrapped around the body region to sink the fly without the need for split shot. The body is either black or white krystal flash. A few short light dun CDC fibers makeup the vestigial wing. The thorax is a few wraps of peacock herl. The CDC wing offers the possibility of fishing the fly in the film if desired, although generally this imitation will be fished it mid flow or towards the bottom.
This fly is best tied very lightly. It imitates not only the local dominant caddis coloration extremely successfully, but also those on the Roaring Fork, Gunnison, Deschutes & McKenzie & Umpqua (Oregon). The hybrid name comes from the fact (primarily due to unstacked wing hair) that it also successfully imitates several local May fly variations. (Beginning in 1999, we built the bodies strictly with complex colored dubbings, eliminating the palmered body hackle. Dubbing colors are blended to suit the local situation. Materials include various antrons, natural rabbit fur with guard hairs, and a base of hareline or superfine standard dubbing.) Normally it's fished as part of a double fly rig - generally with a darker green bodied version with dark wings - sometimes with an emerger or appropriate bead head.
We tie it locally exactly as described in the book. Sizes 18-24. Tail is ostrich herl, body is deer hair ribbed with ultrafine gold wire. Thorax is narrow gray ostrich herl. The fly was fabulous during the spring of 1997.
(The BWO pattern uses olive partridge. Starting in 1999, wing stubs have all be various shades of CDC depending on the type of insect being matched. This allows the emerger to be fished nicely in the film as well as deeper.) This has been an outstanding nymph/emerger on Gore Creek and the Eagle in the past few years.
Tail feathers to match the natural and body dubbing appropriate for standard may fly patterns. The wing obviously is formed from a hackle feather that has been trimmed very close to the quill. It's then tied in a figure eight over the thorax area. Hackle can be non-existent, dubbing based, parachute, or standard wrap. This type of tie can also be used for tricos in appropriate sizes and colors.
No tail - or a few partridge feathers. Body is micro sized red v-rib. 8-0 Black thread for a head, and there is a barely visible vestigial wing pad of antron or other bright material just behind the head.
Tie the glass bead by over wrapping the hook with florescent orange thread. Slip on the beads and tie the thread off at the bend of the hook. A drop or two of super glue secures the package. For the scintilla model create a dubbing loop of 6/0 or 8/0 orange thread and fill it with amber or similar shade of scintilla. Keep the dubbing sparse and before wrapping, cut it close to the thread. Wrap the fly with figure eight motions. This pattern is incredibly lifelike when wet. The "yolk" is astonishingly realistic.
Tied in sizes 14-20 on 2X long dry fly hooks, use a PMD blend body dubbing material. The full length forward tied hackle is either brown or light dun. Wing can be various shades of bucktail or elk hair. Best color this season was pure white. Start the dubbing, then tie in the wing. Overlay the wing with a few wraps of dubbing to the head, and then tie in the hackle starting at the tail of the fly forward all the way to the head in stimulator fashion. Smaller sizes (16-20) seem to be the most useful. (Again beginning in 1999, the body is strictly complex dubbing material. The fly is astonishingly versatile. We've successfully used it to imitate a variety of yellow, green, and golden stones, as well as green drakes and grasshoppers. Obviously it's tied in larger sizes to match these other insects.)
Use brown thread. Tails are dark brown or black goose biots. Body is the most interesting feature. Make up a peacock herl dubbing brush on the spot. Depending on the size of the fly, tie in butt first 2-4 pieces of herl; then tie in a piece of fine copper wire same length as the herl. With a hackle plier gently wind those part together and begin wrapping on the body. Towards the thorax the brush can be lapped back & forth to add mass to that section. Tie in appropriate sized black hackle at the head and take 3-4 wraps. Pull a previously tied in dark turkey flat section over the top of the hackle & tie in at the head. Do not overdress any part of this fly.
Use any desired type of weighting device - from the painted lead eyes noted here to other metal eyes, cone heads or bead heads. The tail is a clump of any colored marabou with a few strands of appropriately colored krystal flash of the same length. The body is simply regular rabbit fur cut from the skin strips & placed in a dubbing loop much like any other dubbing would be used. Continue the dubbing up and over the eyes to create a fuller head. Sizes range from 6-14 on 3X or 4X long streamer hooks.
As an option, we'll sometimes tie in a swath of antron fibers behind the head and loop them back around the rear of the body along the line of a Lafontaine emerging pupa.
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Orv
Petersen
Copyright 1996/2008 P/D/S, Inc. All rights reserved.
Revised: July 21, 2008